Portable heater or the furnace you already have?
Most travel trailers leave the factory with a vented propane furnace plumbed into the onboard tanks. It is the safest heat in the vehicle, because its combustion air comes from outside and its exhaust goes outside. It also runs a 12-volt blower that will flatten a single battery in a long night, and it is loud.
That is the real reason people buy a portable propane heater for a camper: not that the furnace is missing, but that boondocking without hookup makes the blower expensive in amp-hours. A portable radiant heater uses no electricity at all, which is a genuine advantage — and it puts its combustion products in the cabin with you, which is the cost. Use the furnace when you have the power, and the portable heater when you are awake and the vent is cracked.
Built-in RV furnaces and vented wall heaters are fitted by dealers rather than bought off a shelf, so they are not in the picks above — this page covers what you can buy, carry and use yourself.
How much heat does a camper need?
- 3,800 BTU: a van, a teardrop or a small truck camper. Takes the edge off and is the lowest-risk option in the smallest space.
- 9,000 BTU: a typical travel trailer or camper van. The default, and the one most people should buy.
- 18,000 BTU: a large trailer or fifth wheel in sustained cold, where the extra cylinder matters as much as the extra output.
- 45,000 BTU: outdoors, under the awning, for people standing around. Never inside.
Oversizing a heater in an RV is not a safety-neutral choice. More fuel per hour means more oxygen consumed, more combustion product in the cabin and more water vapor — roughly a pint an hour at modest output, which in a camper shows up as condensation on every window and damp bedding by morning.
Cylinders, hoses and where the gas lives
A 1 lb disposable cylinder holds roughly 21,500 BTU, so the Portable Buddy on high empties one in a little over two hours. For any trip longer than a night, buy the hose and regulator and run from a 20 lb tank in the exterior propane locker. Cost per hour falls by a large multiple and you stop carrying empties.
Three rules that are specific to a vehicle rather than a house:
- Spare cylinders live outside. In the propane locker or a vented exterior bay, never in a cabinet in the living space.
- Never run a portable heater while driving. Nor with the propane on at a filling station.
- Check the connection with soapy water, not a flame. Every time the cylinder is changed, including at the campsite in the dark.
What about electric heat in an RV?
On a 30-amp hookup an electric heater is the easy answer — no combustion, no oxygen consumed, no CO, no condensation. The limit is the pedestal: a 1,500 watt heater is 12.5 amps, which is a large share of a 30-amp service before the air conditioner, the water heater or the microwave gets a look in. Plan the load, do not just plug it in. For the mounted-heater version of that idea, see electric porch heaters.
And if the camping is in a tent rather than a trailer, the trade-offs change — propane heaters for camping covers tents specifically, and wood stoves for RVs covers the flued option for anyone willing to cut a hole in the roof.