How much propane heater do you actually need?
BTU figures are easy to over-buy. The useful way to think about it is what you are trying to warm — a person, a work area, or a volume of air.
- 3,800 BTU: one person. A tent, a truck cab, a small shed, an ice shack. The Little Buddy.
- 9,000 BTU: a work area or a single-car garage with the door down. The Portable Buddy.
- 18,000 BTU: a two-car garage, a workshop, a large tent, an RV. The Big Buddy. This is the size most people need.
- 45,000 BTU and up: outdoor job sites, open bays, barns. Not a heater for a closed space.
- 50,000-80,000 BTU convection: warming the whole volume of a large open building. The Dura Heat.
The other axis is radiant against convection, and it matters more than the BTU number. A radiant heater — every Buddy heater, and the tank-top — warms whatever it is pointed at, the way the sun does. Stand in front of it and you are warm instantly; walk ten feet away and you are cold. A convection heater warms the air and lets it circulate, so the whole room comes up slowly and stays up. For working at a bench, radiant wins. For making a barn habitable, convection wins.
Fuel: 1 lb cylinders or a 20 lb tank?
This is where the running cost hides. A 1 lb camping cylinder is convenient and screws straight on, and it is dramatically more expensive per hour of heat than the same propane out of a 20 lb barbecue tank. On a Little Buddy used a few nights a year, nobody cares. On a Big Buddy running most of a winter in a garage, the difference is real money.
The Big Buddy and the Portable Buddy both accept a hose and regulator to a 20 lb tank, which is the configuration to use for anything beyond occasional use. The tank-top heater and the Dura Heat only run from a 20 lb tank — there is no cylinder option, which is part of why they are cheap to run.
The safety rules, stated plainly
These are not disclaimers, they are the operating instructions for this whole category.
- Ventilate. A propane heater consumes oxygen and produces carbon monoxide and water vapor. A cracked window or a partially open garage door is the minimum, in every enclosed space, at every output.
- Fit a carbon monoxide alarm in the space you are heating, and check it. The CPSC recommendation is battery-operated or battery-backup alarms on every level and outside sleeping areas.
- Never run a combustion heater while you sleep in a tent, RV or sealed room. This is the scenario that kills people.
- Check the indoor rating on the listing itself, not on a forum. Where a listing does not state indoor use, our product tables say “Not published” — which means treat it as outdoor equipment.
- Keep clearances. A radiant heater pointed at a tarp, a sleeping bag or a stack of cardboard is a fire. The tank-top heater in particular is an open flame at waist height with no enclosure.
When propane is the wrong fuel
If the space has mains power and you do not need portability, an electric infrared heater produces no combustion products at all, which removes this entire safety conversation — and for a covered porch, a garage with a socket or a balcony, it is usually the better answer. Our propane vs electric comparison works through where each one wins. If you are weighing propane against kerosene for a shop, we compare those two directly in propane vs kerosene heaters. And if what you want is warmth on an open patio rather than inside a building, a freestanding patio heater puts the heat where seated people are.
Four pages go deeper on the specific situations this field is bought for. Is a propane heater safe indoors? is the safety checklist; propane heaters for camping and propane heaters for RVs size the same heaters to a tent and a camper; and propane garage heaters adds the vent-free and forced-air options a garage can take because you can open the door.