Three kinds of propane garage heater
- Portable radiant (Big Buddy, tank-top). Warms what it shines on. Instant, cheap, and it moves with you. Does nothing for the air temperature of the building, which is fine if you are working in one spot.
- Vent-free convection (blue flame). Heats the air, mounts to a wall, and will actually raise the temperature of an enclosed garage. Needs the same ventilation as any unvented heater, and is a fixed installation.
- Forced air (torpedo). Enormous output, loud, and designed for construction sites and shops with the door up. Warms a big cold space fast, then gets turned off.
Most people searching for the best gas heater for a garage are picturing the second one and buy the first. Work out which problem you have: warming yourself while you work, or warming the building.
How much BTU does a garage need?
A rough honest rule for propane in an uninsulated attached garage is roughly 45 to 55 BTU per square foot to hold a working temperature, and about half that if it is insulated. So:
- A 400 sq ft single garage, insulated:roughly 10,000 BTU — the Big Buddy covers it.
- A 600 sq ft double, insulated:roughly 15,000 to 20,000 BTU — Big Buddy on high, or the blue flame.
- A 600 sq ft double, uninsulated:25,000 to 35,000 BTU — the blue flame, or the tank-top radiant if you only need heat where you stand.
- A three-car shop or a pole barn: the forced-air heater, with the door open, for a burst rather than a day.
Insulating the garage door changes this arithmetic more than any heater does. It is the cheapest BTU available.
Ventilation is the whole safety story
Unvented propane does three things to a closed garage: consumes oxygen, releases combustion products including carbon monoxide if combustion is incomplete, and puts roughly a pint of water vapor per hour into the air. In a garage, that last one matters more than people expect — condensation on cold tools and sheet metal is rust.
So: door or window open, a CO alarm fitted, the clearances the manual specifies on every side, nothing flammable nearby, and the heater off before you shut the door and go inside. Two garage-specific additions. First, fuel vapor is heavier than air and pools at floor level, so a radiant heater sitting on the floor near a car being worked on is a bad arrangement. Second, never run a propane heater in a garage with a vehicle engine running — the exhaust and the heater are competing for the same air.
Propane or electric for a garage?
Propane is faster, cheaper per BTU, needs no wiring and can be carried to a garage with no power at all. The cost is ventilation, a cylinder to refill and combustion products in the space you are breathing.
Electric has none of those downsides: no combustion, no CO, no ventilation requirement, nothing to refill. The cost is a 240V circuit for any real output, and a higher running cost per BTU. If you have the breaker space, an electric garage heater is the better long-term answer for a garage you spend hours in with the door shut.
Two related pages if the space is not really a garage: for a covered porch, an electric porch heater warms people without a tank; for a camper, the same propane heaters apply with tighter rules, in propane heaters for RVs.
The wood-burning alternative
If firewood is cheap or free where you are, a stove beats both propane and electric on running cost and keeps working in a power cut. Best wood stove for a garage covers the shop and garage field, the certification difference between an attached garage and a detached shop, and the four things the install needs before any of it is legal.